If you want a warm, intelligent and affectionate pet, yet have neither the time, energy nor space to devote to the demands of a cat or dog, the long-domesticated Fancy Rat may be the perfect companion for you.

While the very word "Rat" may conjure images of vile, sewer-dwelling, plague-infested rodents with beady, red eyes and wet fur covered with lice and fleas, the Fancy Rat is a fully recognized genetic breed of domesticated rat. It has been bred for at least the last 200 years to conform to a particular written standard of breeding. While the first documented domestication of the rat took place in 1800, it is more likely that humans have been domesticating the rat since far before that date. The Fancy Rat is still with us as a popular house pet even today. By the turn of the 20th century, a series of unusual colors and fur patterns began to appear in the domesticated Fancy Rat. It stands today as only a far-distanced genetic memory of its cousin, the often sewer-dwelling wild rat. Fancy Rats are not only a recognized breed, they have their own breeding shows. These shows are organized and judged in the United States by the American Fancy Rat and Mouse Association (AFRMA), an organization which is also an excellent resource for information on care and breeding of Fancy Rats.

The Fancy Rat has long been selectively bred in order to create a calm disposition and a social, even affectionate nature. The Fancy Rat has both of these characteristics, along with a surprising amount of intelligence and cleanliness. The Fancy Rat can learn its own name and perform a multitude of tricks, much like any dog. It can even be potty trained to use the bathroom when directed to do so; a trick mastered by rat owners who like to carry their pets on their shoulders for long periods of time. A very social creature that enjoys interaction with humans, the Fancy Rat is an affectionate and curious animal, which interacts well with children and adults alike. Because of their social tendencies, it is best to buy Fancy Rats in same sex pairs. It works better if they each have constant companionship, unless you are willing to expend the time and effort that can come with mating season and breeding between opposite sex Rats.

The Fancy Rat, like all rats, has poor eyesight, so handling your pet rat should be taken on initially with slowness and care so it will not frighten your new pet. Once your Fancy Rat grows accustomed to your hand and your smells, you can play with it and begin to teach it tricks. Picking your rat up, however, should always be approached in the same method to ensure its safety, by wrapping one hand gently around the chest and supporting its back feet with the other hand. A rat should never be picked up by its tail. While the Fancy Rat is the least likely of domesticated rodents to bite, it may do so when frightened or if it does not trust you. Gentle initial care is key in forming a bond with your new pet.

The Fancy Rat has a general life span of only two to three years, though breeders are constantly trying to extend this length of time. With that one exception, however, the Fancy Rat is considered by some as the perfect pet. It neither sheds, barks, nor chews on your shoes, while maintaining the curiosity, affection, intelligence and social aspects, which are beloved in other, larger pets. While there is no such thing as a 'purebred' rat, as breeders refer to different rat types by variety instead of breed, the Fancy Rat is generally bred to have a good temperament. The cost of a Fancy Rat does not deviate much from the cost of a regular pet store rat. The quality of the rat that you are purchasing is more determined from the temperament of the parents of the rat. Should you choose to breed the Fancy Rat yourself, you should keep in mind that the male Fancy Rat reaches maturity in five to six weeks, while the female reaches maturity at nine to 12 weeks. It is suggested by experienced breeders that female Fancy Rats should not be bred until after 12 weeks of age, for maximum breeding safety and success.

Should you decide to keep a Fancy Rat as a household pet, the most important decisions will revolve around the type of housing you will provide for your Fancy Rat. While wire cages generally provide better ventilation, are easier to clean and attach bottles and wheels to than would an aquarium, keep in mind that wire cages can be a hazard to young rats. They have with very small feet that can get them caught and injured in the mesh of a wire cage. Also, keep in mind that a wire cage should be kept well out of drafty areas. If drafts can not be avoided, the cage should be protected by covering two of the sides with cardboard. Should you chose an aquarium instead, you should plan on acquiring at least a five gallon aquarium for one adult Fancy Rat and at least a 10 gallon aquarium for two adult rats. One or two small fans can be placed over aquariums to decrease problems with ventilation. If price is a concern, aquariums can generally be bought more cheaply than a cage, especially if you can purchase one, which has a crack in it from a pet store. You can fashion a lid for a cracked aquarium with some heavy wire that you should bend over each side of the aquarium. It is best to ensure that you purchase heavy wire, however, as a Fancy Rat can easily chew through finer wire.

The normal body length for adult Fancy Rat is between nine and 11 inches, with an average body weight, which can range from 450-650 grams for males and 350-450 grams for females. The tail is smooth and its length is seven to nine inches in both males and females. The coat has up to 32 recognized color ranges, which include: amber, cinnamon, lilac, blue, champagne, siamese, mink and a multitude of others, all of which come in one of 10 recognized patterns. The three recognized coat types are: standard, which is straight; the rex, which is curly; and the satin, which is shiny. Some recognized breeds are those without tails, hairless, odd-eyed (one pink and one brown eye) and dumbo (a breed with large, round ears).

A domesticated animal which has become very popular in the last 100 years, the Fancy Rat stands as a remarkably quiet, well-mannered, affectionate and easy to care for companion which could make a wonderful pet for anyone.

Fancy Rats, like the wild rat, are omnivores and will eat pretty much anything. Like any other pet, a proper diet should be maintained in order to avoid possible health problems. Purina Rat Chow or small animal pellets are viewed as complete rat nutrition. Tiny portions of vegetables, fruit, or mealworms can also be healthy enough to be given as occasional treats. Cedar and pine shavings should be avoided as bedding since both can cause liver and kidney damage if ingested by the Fancy Rat. Cedar shavings can also cause respiratory problems in the Fancy Rat, as can the ammonia in their own urine, so a clean cage helps make a healthy Rat always. One disorder which seems to plague the occasional domesticated rat is called "Wry Neck", which causes the rat to walk in circles and tilt its head at odd angles. Antibiotics are indicated for treatment, but it is said that some tilt of the head may continue to be present in some rats, which can cause trouble in eating or cleaning themselves. Should this occur, consult your veterinarian for more treatment options. All rats have long incisors that grow constantly. To prevent overgrowth, keep a small chew stick or chew treat in your rat's cage for it to gnaw on and wear the teeth down.

Should you decide to breed the Fancy Rat, then it is good to keep in mind that male and female Rats reach sexual maturity as early as five to six weeks of age, though it is generally best to wait until 16 weeks or later for the safest breeding of a female. Rats should be kept in single-sex groups.

Females come into season every 4-5 days and exhibit signs by raising the rump when stroked, and/or vibration of the ears. When your female is in heat, remove the male you wish to use from his cage, and put him with the female in another, separate cage. Watch carefully for signs of fighting. If mating is observed you may leave them together for 1-2 hours, then return each to their usual cages. Do not leave males and females together permanently.

Gestation is 22 days, and by this time a pregnant female is very visibly pregnant. She may begin nest building and show mild aggression to her cage-mates, but it is safe to leave her with her usual companions if you wish. Alternatively, place her in a cage of her own with a nest box and plenty of shredded paper towel to use as nesting material.

The birth is not usually witnessed by human eyes but you will know when she has given birth by shrill piping and cheeping noises coming from her nest. You may tempt her away from the nest with a treat and then take out the next box away from the cage to examine the babies. Average litter size is 6-12 babies but it is not unusual for as many as 18 to be born. Remove any dead babies, count them all, and replace the nest box.

Feed the mother on a high protein diet during lactation, and you may supplement her with infant soy formula daily, which she will appreciate. The babies open their eyes at 14 days and soon begin to explore their surroundings. Although they will begin to eat solid food while still in the nest, do not take them from their mother until 4-5 weeks of age. Continue to supplement with soy formula until this time as the babies will also benefit and will help to take some of the strain from the mother whose condition may decrease dramatically by the time her milk supply ceases at 4 weeks.

Handle the babies every day to accustom them to humans and stimulate their natural curiosity. This way they will become gentle, confident and affectionate rats that will delight their owners and grow into well mannered, socialized pets.

Separate the males at 5 weeks and remove them to their own cage. The females can remain with their mother until they go to new homes. DO NOT leave them together any longer than this as the females may become pregnant as early as 5 weeks of age.

At 6 weeks of age the babies will have developed their social skills from remaining in with their littermates in sex-separated groups and are now ready to go to their new homes.